“It’s a luxe and slightly minimalist feeling at Dior this season,” explained makeup maestro Pat McGrath of the look she created for the Christian Dior show. Mink shadow was dusted on and around the eyes with a hint of gold on the inner corners and lids, while cheeks were given a touch of warmth and lips were left barely there. Hairstylist Orlando Pita meanwhile, accented the elegant look perfectly with side parted, low ponytails.
The drama was amped up backstage at Yohji Yamomoto where models’ mouths were firmly on focus. A budding almost flower-like effect was created by painting their lips black, leaving a blood red centre, while the cupids bow was given a touch of gold. Eyes matched accordingly with the inner corners splashed with pinkish red eye shadow and a shimmer of gold. Hairstylist Eugene Souleiman and his team swept up half the models’ tresses into chic chignons, with the other half having their hair straightened and a swath of red or blue strands added into tresses.
Viktor & Rolf
Over at Viktor & Rolf models were given luscious, sleek waves on each side of their heads by hairstylist Luigi Murenu, while the lengths of their hair hung straight, “So we have a sense of hardness and softness at the same time,” he explained. Models’ lips were slicked with a fuchsia-burgundy hue, eyelids got a sweep of light gray shadow and skin was kept pale with a tinge of pink highlights for a look makeup artist Pat McGrath describe as ‘Gothic Elegance’.
It was glamour galore at Lanvin with wide, black winged eyes, raspberry coloured mouths and tresses tucked behind ears. “The hair is very simple,” hairstylist Guido Palau said, “So there is a real naturalness to it.” Palau shampooed models’ hair and applied Redken Extreme Anti-Snap leave-in conditioner before allowing each models’ hair to fall into its natural part. Simply stunning.
“Everything is a bit degradé, a little bit worn off,” said makeup artist, Dick Page. Shiseido products such as the blue-black cream eye shadow the models sported, were coated with grease to melt the colour somewhat and give it shine just before girls stepped out onto the catwalk. On lips, Page used Makeup Lacquer Rouge in Nocturn, which was then diffused with dabs of foundation, while lashes were given a bit of mascara and black liner was swept across the inside of eyes. Meanwhile, hairstylist Guido Palau accessorised wet – stringy looking hair with a black band covering the models’ forehead and ears. Very Apres Ski.
Jean Paul Gaultier
Makeup artist, Stephane Marais referenced ‘glam women going out in the Eighties’ when he created the beauty look backstage for Jean Paul Gaultier. ‘They have no fear. They can assume anything. They feel chic’, he said about the somewhat androgynous appearance. A black liquid liner followed by grease paint was slicked onto eyelids and then using a small brush, Marais spread the colour out, making it look worn and destroyed. Models hair was then sprayed a few inches from the middle part down by Guido Palau for a grungey tough look.
It was all about ‘neat and clean’ at the Stella McCartney show. Models had their hair pulled back off their faces into chignons and finished with a spray of Wella Professionals Ocean Spritz Beach Texture Hairspray, making it quite textured and raw. Makeup artist Pat McGrath kept skin au naturale with groomed brows and applied a coat of Cover Girl Lashblast 24 Hour Mascara in black to eyelashes, followed by a blue pigment gel.
Backstage at the Chanel show, Peter Philips painstainkingly measured the perfect brow height to create dazzling crystal face appliques, while Sam McKnight made sure each individual hair on the models’ super sharp ponytails was running in sleek, straight lines. “It’s all about creating a uniform model army today,” Peter said.